General rule is if you can feel the stampings or ridges with your fingernail, the case will need an align bore and correctly sized bearings. Look for worn main dowel pin holes, and any bearing stampings or oil passage ridges. With the case split, move inside to inspect the bore where the bearings sit. The middle (one shown top-left in the picture below) may be drilled and tapped for a full-flow oiling system, but the others should be sealed. Towards the nose of the case, check that the three oil galley plugs have not moved and are not leaking. While on the outside of the case, check the oil pressure sender hole for stripped threads and cracks. On the Cylinder 1 head stud location, there are often cracks radiating from the head stud hole to the case stud hole. This area is often welded or filled-in for performance applications. Older or worn cases can produce a large verticle crack. Later cases typically have more magnesium or aluminum in this high-stress area. On the outside of the case, check the front of Cylinder 3 for cracks. Check the oil sump studs for any cracks radiating from the stud holes.
Moisture collects in the bottom of the oil sump and can rot out the bottom sump plate and oil screen area. We highly recommend installing case savers when rebuilding an engine.Ī common place for corrosion is the oil drain sump area. Stripped head studs are usually not an issue. Give the engine a thorough once-over, looking for stripped, broken, or missing bolts and studs and overall condition of the block.
An hour or two cleaning could save you many hours later if grease or grime covered a crack that renders the engine case useless. Once your engine is torn down, take your time to thoroughly clean the engine. Looking to rebuild your VW Type 1 engine? Here are some of our tips when shopping for a used engine case or re-using your block.įor a reliable, long-lasting, and solid performing engine, you need a good case.
0 kommentar(er)
